FREE PATTERN: Big Stripe Big Cable Capelet

Time: 8 hours?
Cost: $12
Skills: Knitting in the round on circulars, cables
Level: Beginner
I just love my little capelet (is this actually a capelet? I’m not 100% on the terminology, but it seems too little to call a poncho…). It’s toasty, but light and short enough (elbow-length) to throw over anything and still have a pretty normal range of motion. If you don’t like the rolled edges, trim in garter or seed or something unrolly, or start with a couple knit rows and a purled row & turn the edge under to hem.
It’s knit in the round from the bottom up, and there’s a simple, fat cable going up the middle. It’s a good, easy project for My First Cable. And this was, in fact, my first cable that wasn’t just a swatch. I kind of only like big fat cables.
This yarn is cheap (under $4 for a 4oz hank) and old timey and I love it. It’s called Briggs & Little, from Canada’s oldest yarn mill, apparently. It’s got lots of lanolin & feels stiff to begin, but kind of warms up as you knit it. With washing, it blooms from a somewhat stiff fabric to something soft and full and bouncy. It’s a little rough for a next-to-skin item, but it’s fantastic and sturdy for something layered, like this capelet.
This garment uses 3 natural-looking colored heathered grays. There’s a fair amount of vegetable matter you have to pick out, but I actually kind of like that, makes it feel all the more rustic.
You can mail order it from Deanna Dunsmuir in New Brunswick.
Size
Women’s One size (SML).
Note: For larger sizes, use an extra hank or two (for instance, start with a hank of Sheep’s Gray, lighter, or Threaded White & Gray, a twist; or end with a hank of Black) and adjust pattern based on washed & blocked gauge. (If that’s too vague, email me & I’ll quit being so lazy and figure out the math.)
Yarn
- 1 hank (4 oz) each color Briggs & Little Atlantic (100% wool) in Dark Gray, Medium Gray, and Light Gray
Needles
- US 10.5 24-30″ and 16″ circular needles
- Close size dpn in wood or bamboo (or you can use a cable needle or the extra circular)
Gauge
- 11.5 st=4″ washed & blocked
Patterns
Cable 12 back: Slip next 6 st onto cable/extra needle. Move those stitches to the back of your work, then knit the next 6 stitches on your left needle. Side the reserved stitches to the end of the needle they’re on, and knit them onto your right needle.
Cable 6 back: Slip next 3 st onto cable/extra needle. Move those stitches to the back of your work, then knit the next 3 stitches on your left needle. Side the reserved stitches to the end of the needle they’re on, and knit them onto your right needle.
Instructions
Light Gray
- With Light Gray, CO 145. Join & PM, being careful not to twist st.
- Place cable panel markers: K64, P2, PM, K12, PM, P2, K to end.
- Work 13 more rnds in pattern
- K 64, P2, SM, Cable 12 back, SM, P2, K to end
- Work 8 more rnds in pattern
Switch to Medium Gray. Starting with #3, work as for Light Gray.
Switch to Dark Gray.
Note: You’ll need to switch to the smaller needles after a few decrease rows–after the cable is a convenient point.
- Work 9 rows in pattern.
- PM for raglan shoulder decreases: K24, PM, K24, PM, K16, P2, SM, K12, SM, P2, K16, PM K24, PM, K to end.
- Decrease before and after each shoulder marker (not cable markers or row end marker!) every other rnd, three times–121 st
- Work rnd in pattern, working Cable 12 back at center panel.
- Decrease before and after each shoulder marker (not cable markers or row end marker!) every other rnd, two more times–105 st
- Work 1 rnd plain
- Decrease before and after each shoulder marker (not cable markers or row end marker!) every rnd, three times–81st
- Decrease one last time before and after each shoulder marker, and also work the following decrease/cable between the cable markers: ssk, K1, Cable 6 back, K1, K2tog.
- Work row plain, except between cable markers: ssk, K4, K2tog.
BO. Weave in all ends, working in ends at color joins in duplicate for a few stitches, then weaving in normall.
Soak in cool water with wool wash or shampoo for 5 minutes. Squeeze suds through gently, rinse gently, roll in towels, pat into place, and let air dry.
Here’s a crappy picture of me wearing the capelet, which is a little rumpled from being worn nonstop for a week & then wadded up on a chair for another week. It’s I’m useless with the auto-timer, so I’ll try to get Ron to take a fresh, pretty shot next time I get around to washing it.



March 30th, 2006 at 8:50 pm
I love it!
Dood, I love your mascot, too. The whole blog is awesome!
March 30th, 2006 at 8:55 pm
Thanks! I’m finally getting to satisfy my desire to chronicle the excruciatingly dull details of my craft life without sending poor Ron into a coma. Haven’t really mastered using the software yet, though.
February 11th, 2012 at 9:05 am
Can I ask you a question about this gorgeous pattern? For instructions regarding the decrease rounds: do I decrease the round and then knit a round in the pattern in between, then decrease, knit the pattern, then decrease again? Or do I just do three rounds of decreasing the pattern? Also, in instruction #8, do you mean to cable 6 back (slip 3 stitches and move to back of work then knit 3, then knit slipped stitches)? Sorry to bother you, I think the piece is so lovely and I’m almost done. Just want to make sure I do it right! Kind regards, D
March 15th, 2012 at 7:39 pm
On #7, no plain rnds in between (or, honestly, you could & it wouldn’t matter–I wrote this so long ago, I can’t remember why the more rapid decrease at the end). And from looking at the pattern notes, which mention c6b not c3b, I think that must be a typo, which I am going to fix right now!