This S/M capelet knits up FA-AST on #35 needles and uses a mere 2 balls of Rowan Biggy Print, so you can make something besides a scarf, hurray!
Add an extra ball for a larger size or longer capelet.
And while regular-priced Biggy Print is by no means a bargain, yarn, you can get the closeout colors for $5.99 at Webs, so with a little contrast yarn from your stash, you’re fixed up for a mere $12. And if the colors don’t sing to you, you can always dye them: I overdyed an orange and gray print with turquoise acid dye. If you dye it, don’t be lazy with your rinsing like me, or you’ll get runoff on your trim color, like me.
Ooh! This would also be nice use of superbulky handspun, like my beautiful missing Hello Yarn (shut up! I can obsess over it as long as I please! In fact, my longing will probably make it reappear, so there).
For size S/M (L, XL) with a finished neck measurement of about 16 (20, 26)”
US #35 needles
2 (3, 3) balls of Rowan Biggy Print (allegedly 100% merino wool–although it seems only medium-soft; 33 yards per 100g ball)
big yarn needle
optional, for trim and button (if you prefer, skip the trim & use a regular button):
J crochet hook
10 – 20g bulky yarn in a contrasting color
Gauge: 5 st = 4″ in stockinette st.
For smooth slipped-stitch edge:
All WS Rows after first row: Slip the first stitch, knit the second stitch, purl to 2 st from end, K those 2 st.
All RS Rows: Slip the first stitch, knit to end.
I spit-spliced my ends together, as the bulky yarn is an ass-pain to weave in.
CO 17 (21, 27) st.
NOTE: If you want a looser neckline, go up a size when you cast on, place markers ad dircted, and drop one of the increase rnds.
First Row (WS): Work 1 rnd in K1 P1 rib, placing markers as noted below.
On the first row, we’re going to work 1×1 rib while we place our markers for future increase. The row won’t draw in like ribbing. Instead, it will actually give a slightly bigger gauge (because it’s worked at the same needle size, but is inherently looser than stockinette) and will prevent curling.
3 (4, 5) st [for front half], PM, 3 (3, 4) st [for shoulder], PM, 5 (7, 9) st [for back], PM, 3 (3, 4) st [for shoulder], PM, 3 (4, 5) st [for front half]
Next Row (RS/increase): Maintaining slip-stitch edge, Increase before and after every marker by knitting into the front and back loops of the stitch (or a M1; yarnover eyelets are a little too much for a yarn this gauge).
Purl next row (WS), maintaining edge.
Increase as above each RS (knit) row 3 (4, 5) times more; purl the WS rows plain.
Work in stockinette, maintaining edge. When you’re running low on yarn, starting at the end, measure out 4 times the width of your bottom edge and tie a slipknot there. That length is what you’ll need to bind off, so only knit as many full rows as you can before that slipknot.
BO in K1 P1 rib (this keeps the edge straight and loose). Weave in ends.
With crochet hook and bulky stash yarn, single crochet (SC) along bottom edge of capelet. Because the irregular yarn makes for some stitches that are wider than others, I SC 2 into most of the bound-off stitches, and 3 into the the really large ones.
Leaving a 6″ tail to sew on button, chain 3 with a double strand of your trim yarn. Join into a round and SC into each stitch 3 times, join rnd, and repeat. The result will be a little cup. Weave in that end (leave the beginning tail alone). Thread about a foot of leftover Biggy Print onto your yarn needle, then make a backstick along the outside of the cup (which will also fill in the cup).
If your trim yarn is feltable, you can felt the button if you wish before sewing it on. I’d recommend starting with a Ch 4 instead, and adding an extra rnd of sc, so you end up with a bigger cup, allowing for shrinkage.
Look at your top edge. pick the side with the looser, more open first stitch and sew the button to the opposite side. To wear, just push button through that first open stitch. Block lightly.
If you’re looking for another use for 2 – 3 balls Biggy Print, French Girl has a darling little cropped sweater pattern.