Author: Nikol

Time: 2-3 hours

Cost: $5

Level: Beginner

Size: Junior one-size/women’s medium. Cast on 12 more st per size up to make it larger.

Here’s another wrap I made this wrap at the behest of my mom, who wanted a loophole to get her through her office’s dress code, allowing her to wear tanks and camisoles in the summer. The point of this wrap isn’t to keep warm, or even really to cover up, but to give the appearance of being covered up, something like cutting the feet off your tights in high school and calling them leggings to get away with wearing your alarmingly short skirt.

It knits up fast and easy, thanks to the big needles and elongated stitches. Gauge isn’t super-cricital, and you can sub any worsted mohair yarn. The stuff I used is a gorgeous tomato red and super-cheap. I bought it on ebay. It’s from Russia, and I’m not sure what it says about me, but I have to say I really like not being able to read anything on the label.

I had over 1/3 of a ball left, so I might make another one, with a wider neckline, jumping to Row 14 right after Row 11. The neckline on this one is sweet and demure, but a couple rows shorter would be sassier. Plus, I won’t have enough yarn otherwise.

The elongated stitches on this version are made by wrapping the yarn around both needles, then knitting normally. This results in a giant, loose stitch (versus the other way, used in the other loophole wraps which results in a bunch of yarn overs, then a giant stitch on the previous row, after the next row is knitted and extra yarn overs are dropped).

Tip: If you’re using interchangable circulars, use a smaller needle for your left needle after the first row. The stitches will slide across easier, so you don’t have to fight with them.

Yarn

1 ball this yarn (50g, 120m, 65% mohair, 25% wool, 10% acrylic), or another mohair blend with a similar yardage/ball

2 yds 3/4″ satin ribbon in a coordinating color

Needles

US 15 24″ circular needle

Instructions

Using 2 strands, CO 100. Join & PM.

Row 1: Drop 2nd strand. Insert right needle into stitch knitwise, wrap yarn around both needles twice, then knit.

Rows 2-9: K

Row 10: Insert right needle into stitch knitwise, wrap yarn around both needles, then knit. Repeat across row.

Row 11: K

Row 12: *K 3, K2tog, repeat from * across row

Row 13: Insert right needle into stitch knitwise, wrap yarn around both needles, then knit. Repeat across row.

Row 14: K 2, BO, *K2tog, BO, K1, BO, K1, BO, repeat from * across row.

Finish neckline by threading with Lily Chin’s brilliant method. Thread the tail end onto a yarn needle. Then insert under the first bound-off chain after that big ugly gap. Go under both loops of that chain, like you would if you were picking up stitches into it, then pull the thread through and insert the needle back into lthe middle of the last bound-off chain (where you originally pulled out the tail). Pull taut to even out, then weave in end into the top edge.

You can approximate that on the bottom as well.

Grasping the the neckline and hemline, tug gently to pull the elongated stitches taut, working around the entire wrap twice. If you cast on with the long-tail method, pull the hemline taut width-wise as well.

Spray and block dry, either by pinning flat, pulling elongated stitches taut, or by using a skirt hanger and clipping a steel knitting needle along the bottom edge.

Weave the ribbon through the elongated stitches. I went under 2 st and over 3 (so more ribbon was exposed than covered). Tie in a bow. I tied mine off-center because I like having one long end, but you can center if if you’re into symmetry.

Time: 3 hours

Cost: varies by yarn

Level: Beginner

Size: Women’s medium. For larger sizes, CO 10 st additional for each size up.

I made this wrap at the behest of my mom, who wanted a loophole to get her through her office’s dress code, allowing her to wear tanks and camisoles in the summer. The point of this wrap isn’t to keep warm, or even really to cover up, but to give the appearance of being covered up, something like cutting the feet off your tights in high school and calling them leggings to get away with wearing your alarmingly short skirt.

It knits up fast and easy, thanks to the big needles and elongated stitches. Gauge isn’t super-cricital–use any 3 worsted weight yarns. Kristi’s a magpie, so the multi-yarn version is full of bling.

The elongated stitches in this version are worked by wrapping extra YO on the right needle before knitting each stitch in the row. The following row is knitted with the same number of stitches, dropping the extra yarn-overs from the previous row. This method varies from the elongated stitches in the mohair version, but the end result is almost identical.

The multi-yarn version uses about 60 yds of each yarn, so it’ll work for scraps. If you run out, just bind off sooner, preferably immediately after a drop-stitch row, so it won’t curl. The single-yarn version has a wider neckline (BO a few rows sooner–also handy if you run out of yarn.

Tip: If you’re using interchangable circulars, use a smaller needle for your left needle once you start dropping the elongated stitches. The stitches will slide across easier, so you don’t have to fight with them.

Multi-yarn version

~60 yds each three coordinating/contrasting yarns. C can be an effect yarn.

Used:

A: 1 ball Berroco Softwist (59% Rayon, 41% Wool, 1.75/oz 50 g,100 yds/92 m), 9439 Ginger
B: 1 ball Berroco Glace (100% Rayon,1.75 oz/50 g, 75 yds/69 m), 2535 Fawn
C: 1 ball Berroco Opulent FX (100% Nylon, 1.75 oz/50 g, 103 yds/95 m), 7812 Polished Copper–discontinued–$2 closeout at yarn.com

Single-yarn version

~100 – 150 (for fringed version) yds any ribbon yarn

(I used 1.5 balls Karabella Diamonds, which is way expensive, but I had it leftover from a Naughty Needles pattern that didn’t work out.)

Fringed version also requires 2 ft of 3/4 to 1″ wide satin ribbon in a color you like with the ribbon yarn

Needles

US 15 24″ circular needle

Instructions

Multi yarn version (single-yarn version). If only one instruction is given, work both patterns the same. In the case of the single-yarn version, follow the same instructions using 1 strand.

Using all 3 yarns (using 2 strands), CO 80. Join & PM.

Row 1: Yarn A: K, wrapping yarn 3x on each stitch.

Row 2: Yarn A: K, dropping extra wraps

Row 3: Yarn B & C: K

Row 4-5: Yarn B: K

Row 6: Yarn A: K

Row 7: Yarn A & C: K

Row 8: Yarn A: K

Row 9-10: Yarn B: K

Row 11: Yarn B & C: K, wrapping yarn twice

Row 12: Yarn B: K, dropping extra YO

Row 13: Yarn B: K

Row 14: All yarns: *K 3, K2tog, repeat from * across row

Row 15: All yarns: K, wrapping yarn twice

Row 16: Yarn A: K, dropping extra YO (BO, knitting each stitch once and dropping extra YO)

(Following are for multi-yarn version only. Or end striped version as above if you want a wider neckline.)

Row 17: Yarn A: *K 2, K2tog, repeat from * across row

Row 18: Yarn A: K

Row 19: Yarn B & C: K

Row 20: Yarn A & C: K

Row 21: Yarn B: K, wrapping yarn twice

Row 22: All yarns: BO, dropping extra YO

Finish neckline by threading with Lily Chin’s brilliant method. Thread the tail end onto a yarn needle. Then insert under the first bound-off chain after that big ugly gap. Go under both loops of that chain, like you would if you were picking up stitches into it, then pull the thread through and insert the needle back into lthe middle of the last bound-off chain (where you originally pulled out the tail). Pull taut to even out, then weave in end into the top edge.

Grasp by the top & shake vigorously to pull taut the dropped stiches. For slippy yarns, that will be enough. For less slippy yarns: grasping the the neckline and hemline, tug gently to pull the elongated stitches taut, working around the entire wrap twice. If you cast on with the long-tail method, pull the hemline taut width-wise as well.

I disapprove of the fringe, hence hiding my face in shame, but I know my mom will dig it, and the whole point of making handknits for other people is to give them what they’ll actually like, not to impose your own values on them, right?

So if you want fringe, cut five 12″ strands for each tassle. Place a tassle every 5 – 7 st around hemline, leaving spot for the center tassle. Cut six 2′ strands, hold with ribbon and make final tassle.

I wish I had a nicer dress form or a mannequin. I’m getting too old to look cute in pictures I take of myself. Sigh.

When I started knitting, I hated cables. And philosphically, I still do. I would never buy a cabled sweater, for instance.

But they’re just so fun to knit.

I was an acting major in college before I came to my senses (sort of). We had to do rotations of all the production departments–lighting, set construction, costuming. And the best costumers were almost always the worst dressers. Something about surrendering good sense/taste to the materials/construction, I think. At some point you lose your ability to see past what can be done and remember what should be done. Clearly many knitters forget this distinction, too. (And I’m really one to talk, considering the contents of my book–but that’s funny, not earnest.)

I’m far from being such a good knitter that I start dressing like some of the dumber Rowan books, but still. (I think dressing Rowan also requires a starvation diet, so that’s not so risky, but you feel me.)

P.S. By the way, here’s your pants.

(The current issue of knit.1 does have several things I’d actually make, too.)

So I’m thinking of maybe trying to be more of a joiner. I’m thinking of joining a knitalong. Or the stashalong, much more appropriate for me: http://stashalong.blogspot.com/

Except that there’s a few things I still want to buy before the Webs anniversary sale is over. Like some of that Baby Alpaca Grande. And I should swatch the stuff I already bought in case I can’t live without it. Hm. I am clearly not ready for the spirit of the stashalong.

The first step is admitting I have a problem.

What’s the second step?

Okay, I don’t think I actually made some big pronouncement last time I fell of the yarn wagon (mmmmm, yarn wagon….), but I should be laying off. Sort of like I’m not officially on a diet, but I shouldn’t have finished off that jar of Kisses last night. Anyhoo, the stuff I bought is for an actual pattern that I’m actually going to make (next month–too much unfinished stuff right now), a very cute top. And the pattern came free with the yarn and the yarn was cheap, so what do you want from me?

The top is here and the yarn ($1.98/ball Schoeller Stahl  Micro Cable, which unaccountably has an accent over the final e?)it uses is smooth and shiny and nice to knit.

Then to round up to $25 because I feel compelled to use one of my $2.50 off $25 credits (which I realize is their ploy, but I buy it anyway), I bought 2 balls of Cleckheaton Merino Supreme at $3.50/ea. It’s buttery yum and has an almost cottony touch that looks prone to pill (like the Debbie Bliss Cashmerino), I’m thinking mittens? I love the acidy pea color, but it looks crap on me. But down on my mitts, who will notice?

The last ball is $2.98/ball Peruvian Collection Uros Aran, 50/50 wool/llama, just because I was curious about llama. It’s nothing standout, maybe a little softer than the Highland Wool but the color (congac) is very pretty, autumnal, and a little darker/richer in person than on the site (like most of the elann colors–I always like them better in real life, which is a nice change from most sites). I wouldn’t use it next to my skin, but I’m a titty baby about wool. (The Cleckheaton could go against my skin. Hm. Maybe I should make that hello yarn neck warmer instead. Maybe if I edge it in black, no one will notice how fugly I look in acid pea green…)

So I’ve been swatching yarn trying to pick the very bestest so I can start crocheting my big project for Vickie Howell’s book, but I decided to just go ahead and use the whole ball so I can get a better sense of drape and yardage. I still haven’t found a yarn/color combination I’m happy with. The Berroco Ultra Alpaca (50/50 alpaca wool, in very rich multihued heathery color blend) had nice yardage & the alpaca gives it great drape, but the color’s just too green (at least unfelted). 1 hank made a 40 x 7″ scarf in sc.

The Tahki Donegal Tweed (100% wool) is closer to the color I’m looking for (dark khaki green/brown), but maybe too tweedy? And it doesn’t have the drape of the alpaca blend, but there’s good yardage here, too. One hank made a 45 x 6.5″ scarf in sc.

The perfect color (it’s a little khakier than it looks here) was the Peruvian Collection Baby Silk (80% baby alpaca/20% silk), but the yardage is awful (although, everything’s relative–for the price, it’s pretty comparable) because it’s a “luxury yarn” & comes in tiny 25g balls, and it’s just too fine for my purposes, so I had to double it, which resulted in a tiny 7 x 9″ swatch from a whole ball.

I seamed the side & I’ll be using it for a beer cozy, unless it’s so dreamy felted that I’m beside myself and decide to use it after all. But it’s already seamed, so it will still be a beer cozy.

The next step is to felt them, but I was curious about their washed properties for future reference, so I gave them a little bath before their felting. I don’t know whether the donegal got shorter or the ultra alpaca got longer because I’m waiting until they’re dry to measure, but they’re the same length now. The baby silk definitely is larger row-wise. I didn’t try to block them back to their original dimensions, just patted them out to see what they do naturally (below: donegal, ultra, baby).

My Webs order came yesterday. I immediately photographed it & put it all away before Ron got home. I’m officially an ashamed addict who has to hide her habit. It’s horrible. And seriously, I can’t stop thinking about Webs grab bags and how much I want some, even though I’m totally too busy to knit just now, and even though I have a lifetime of yarn in my stash. BUT I CAN NOT RESIST A BARGAIN. This is my downfall.

Okay, here’s what was inside the big 23-pound box:

 

 1) 4 bags K1C2 Angora Soft, 2 to knit into plush, light sweaters (black & pink), 2 to dye (white). I got a bag of this in pale green in my last Webs order grab bag & wasn’t overly impressed until I swatched it. It was very nice to knit. It’s a soft chain yarn with nylon, viscose & angora, soft & drapey. $22.49/bag of 10 after discount.

(I’ve started knitting my unwashed stitch & row count into my swatches. The bottom’s the needles size, from Lily Chin & then I put the counts in the top. It’s handy, because I’m seldom together enough to remember to record the values before I wash.)

 

2) a big cone of black cotton, for a rug, probably, or something housey. $3/pound. This was 6#.

 

3) Donegal Tweed, $12/# (about 2#). I’m really eager to swatch & wash this. It looks like it will be very very pretty. (Later…and it is! But still too scratchy by the skin. Here are two tiny microswatches I made, one just washed and one lightly felted:)

4) Worsted mill end yarn $5/# (about 2.6#). Who knows? It’s soft enough.

5) Acidy green rug wool, $4.50/pound (~2#). For an acidy green throw rug!

 

6) 2 bags of Ultralight ($30/bag of 10). 53% alpaca, 22% wool, 25% nylon. Lofty and fuzzy! One bag in a hot pink for a tight ribbed sweater, one in white for dying. The color’s a little more retina-burning.

7) a bunch of singles, which I don’t normally like to do, but most of these are on supersale for the Webs anniversary sale & I wanted to swatch them & see what I thought. The sale goes until May 26, so even with Prom, I should have time. There’s Debbie Bliss Merino Superchunky, which I bought to see if I preferred the blue to the green I made into a yummy 1-ball doubeknit scarf;

 

Reynolds Andean Alpaca Regal (90% alpaca, 10% wool) on sale for $6.75/100g, which I was hoping would be a good substitute for the Plymouth Baby Alpaca Grande, also on sale, but a bit more expensive–the Alpaca Regal seems less bulky, but it might just be that the skein is more tightly wound.

Plymouth Suri Merino. I don’t remember choosing this–I guess I just wanted to sample it?

 

Valley Yarns Shelburn in a soft & hot pink, a wool/acrylic/alpaca soft twist bulky that’s pretty, but doesn’t approach the value of the Valley Yarns Berkshire Bulky (wool/apaca softwist), but it is loftier, so we’ll see how it knits. I’m going to use the two in a sideways knit garter skinny scarf. (Later: instead made the Double Bubble Double Knit scarf.)

Jo Sharp Silk Road Tweed in licorice, on sale for $6/ball–the solid got props from Knitter’s Review, and it feels super dreamy. And that last one is Valley Yarns Sugarloaf, a merino/microfiber blend that reminds me of Lion Kool Wool, only lighter, but that didn’t bowl me over. Of course, it does look nice and lofty, and should have dreamy stitch definition. I’m fond of Kool Wool, but it’s been discontinued & so it’s easy to find for cheap right now (Smiley’s has it for $2/ball–I bought a ton of it when they had it on special for $1.25). I haven’t knit it yet, so we’ll see. I also ordered a cone of alpaca/lambswool blend on closeout, but they sold out, fuckers. It looked yummy & I was psyched about making a sweater from a cone, a sweater that might not need a shirt under it. Cone yarns, at least the ones on closeout, are usually so scratchy.

Time: 2 hrs

Cost: $8

Skills: Knitting, kitchener’s stitch

Level: beginner

It’s a short scarf, but it’s double-knit, so it’s double thick and double toasty. Just the right length to wrap once and tuck into your collar. It’s knit of Debbie Bliss cashmerino superchunky, which is normally pricey. But Webs has 3 yummy closeout colors that are just $8 each. It’s a 100g ball, so it’s a very good value. The yarn is delectable, butterysoft and lofty and yummilicious. I’ve heard it’s prone to pilling, so I was reluctant to buy a sweater’s worth, despite its skin appeal.

All 3 closeout colors are unisexy, so you could buy a bunch and finishe off your holiday knitting in a weekend. Anyone would be thrilled to get this little goodie the moment they touched it. (My color’s not great–the green’s close & the blue is somewhere between what you see & what the Webs site shows. But they’re all pretty.)

If you’ve never double-knit, this is an easy introduction. You’ll knit every other stitch and slip the alternate stitches with the yarn in front. In effect, what happens is that you’re knitting one side of doubled fabric at a time, using every other stitch in your working side (the yif slipped stitches keep the opposite side’s work out of the way untiel you flip it). You end up with a tube that’s seamed at the bottom, so the result is almost like knitting in the round. But it stays flat. I’m sure there’s a reason, but I don’t know it.

Yarn

1 ball Debbile Bliss Cashmerino Superchunky (55% merino, 33% microfiber 12% cashmere, 100g/83yd) Webs Closeout (or you can buy the current colors for about $15 ball)

Needles

US 11 dpns
yarn needle

Instructions:

CO 18.

Every row: *K1, move yarn to front, Sl 1, move yarn back.

Continue until you’ve got about 18″ of yarn left, then split the stitches between 2 dpns, alternating every other stitch between the 2 needles. Seam the open end with kitchener stitch. (If you’re afraid of kitchener stitch, you can K2tog, *K2tog, BO across the whole row, but it’s a stiffer end.